Victorian Jewellery: What Would You Buy?

by: Rebecca Leeson

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Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 Time: 10:01 PM - 0 comments

Victorian jewellery isn't all about choker necklaces and cameo brooches. Encompassing more than 60 years, there are many diverse types of jewellery pieces and jewellery making styles that epitomise the different eras of the Victorian period.

Queen Victoria herself often influenced the jewellery fashions of the age but jewellery design was also increasingly affected by imports, archaeological discoveries and travel overseas. Artistic expression is often said to be categorised by different periods, namely Romantic, Grand and Aesthetic.

Reflecting the wave of optimism following the crowning of the new young queen and her marriage to Prince Albert, jewellery was designed with romanticism in mind. Pieces were often produced with open gold work with intricate designs based on the filigree, piercing, repoussé and cannetille techniques. With the price of gold high, none of these works had huge amounts of gold but rather the designers took their time manufacturing and would occasionally include thin plates of gold on a piece with perhaps some engraving. Gemstones would accompany the gold with choices of turquoise, topaz, peridot, ruby, sapphires and emeralds to name a few. The designs desired included flowers; serpents, a sign of eternity; lockets with the hair of a loved one enclosed; songbirds and love knots and miniatures. Cameos from conch shells are one of the most famous editions from Victorian jewellery.

Hair jewellery was part of the Romantic period wherein mothers would pass on to daughters how to weave hair into bracelets with gold fittings or enclosure in a locket. This type of Victorian jewellery was used for both mourning and remembrance of the living. Diamonds were worn with eveningwear only and in the daytime more demure jewellery was worn. After Queen Victoria purchased Balmoral Castle in Scotland in 1848, Celtic inspired creations and pebbled jewellery became popular fashions.

The Romantic period ended with the death of Prince Albert. With the queen mourning her loss for the next twenty-seven years coupled with the rise in popularity of the European 'Grand Tour', when the new urban middle classes could show off their wealth and status through magnificent jewellery and fashion, this era is often regarded as the Grand Period. Metals and gems were also used in a grandiose manner. Darker stones such as onyx, amethyst and deep red garnets became the fashion following the queen's tendency to wear black mourning jewellery at this time. Whitby jet in particular became extremely popular for use in mourning jewellery. The price of gold dwindled, so more of the precious metal was used. Reverse painting was used for designing different scenes onto Victorian jewellery that included stickpins, broaches, pendants and cufflinks.

The Suez Canal's construction and the fascination with Egypt gave birth to motifs such as palmettes, lotus flowers and scarabs. In the 1860s Japanese craftsmanship was introduced to England and Asian themes began to show up on the market. When Queen Victoria became the Empress of India in 1876 it infused the Indian notions of art into fashion and design, and revived the use of cloisonné enamels in jewellery design.

The last stage of Victorian jewellery is known as the Aesthetic Period from 1880 until Queen Victoria's death in 1901. With more carefree attitudes bursting out of the fashion scene after the prolonged mourning and absence of the queen, this period brought in playful ideas that included dragons, butterflies and griffins. Diamonds from the new South African mines brought in light to contrast the shadow of the previous period. The fashion conscious Princess Alexandra promoted the use of coral, pearls and sapphires to complement the diamonds. Sterling silver became part of the fashion wherein you could find designs with circus characters, boats, sports, hunting and Japanese fans.

So if you're looking for Victorian jewellery to buy, chances are you'll have a vast assortment to choose from.